OKI,

A visit to Oki is as much a theatrical event as a gustatory one. Each table is equipped with its own gas grill and each meal is cooked by your own attending chef. The 10 Japanese dinner choices are straightforward: steak, chicken, seafood or combinations thereof, each served with a shrimp starter, light onion soup, salad, grilled vegetables, rice and tea. We observed the chef's dexterous de-tailing of the shrimp, which he then ignited on the grill with a splash of vodka. He lightly seared our swordfish ($15.95) before cutting it into pieces and cooking it to remarkable tenderness. Oki also offers more than a dozen sushi selections.